Ultra Ulster

Thursday -

After another late night chatting when Louise got in we decided to sleep in before heading to Belfast. We grabbed some tea and fruit and hit the road around noon with the goal of meeting up with Allison for lunch. Louise and Allison decided we couldn’t leave the country without having a proper Ulster Fry - aka heart attack on a plate. Allison planned to cook it up for us and had it ready when we arrived at her home. The meal consists of sausages (the size of a bratwurst), a fried egg, vegetable roll (think sausage patty, the “vegetable” is a bit of parsley or sage and onion in with the pork), fried soda bread, fried potato bread (which is mashed potatoes and flour made into a flat cake like thing), and bacon (their bacon is more like canadian bacon or a slice of ham). All of this is fried up in the grease from the meat and some butter and served on a plate with HP sauce on the side. HP is served with almost every meal, sort of the UKs answer to ketchup- it taste a bit like bbq or worcestershire sauce. OMG . . .we were soooo full after that. I wasn’t sure we could walk, but as this was our last day to sight see, we soldiered on!

The plan was to take us to the Ulster Folk Park, a park that has acquired several historical buildings from Northern Ireland and has them set up sort of like a town. You can walk through the businesses, homes and churches and get a feel for the ways folks lived in different eras. It was another sunny afternoon and we had a good time seeing all the antiques and buildings ranging from tiny dwellings without indoor plumbing to thatched homes to fancy shops.

After we had seen all there was to see, we headed back to Allison and Frank’s where we were joined by their daughter Natasha. Allison insisted on feeding us more before we left- we were still full from lunch but couldn’t resist her delicious lasagna. The meal was fun and we enjoyed laughing with our new friends over dinner.

At long last, we bade them farewell and Louise took us to the airport. It was hard to say good-bye since we don’t know when we will be able to see her again. Dear friends are a true gift, but it sure is hard living so far apart!!!

After a few more hugs, we had to catch our flight which went without a hitch. We were greeted on the other end by Linda who graciously offered to host us again, even tho it meant a late night at the airport and a ride back early the next morning. We are so grateful to have been hosted so kindly by so many friends old and new. It has made leaving for home bittersweet. We have a lot for which to be grateful!

Sunshine & the Sea

Wednesday -

After another late night visiting, we slept a bit later today but were again greeted by the sunshine. So it was off to tour Old Bushmill's Distillery and see more of the coast! Our first stop was the distillery - where we learned it doesn't hurt to know the local rector . .. someone in Louise's church works at the distillery, so we got complimentary passes for the tour! Bushmill's is the oldest whiskey distillery in the world, so we couldn't leave without a visit. We have found it really interesting to learn more about how this spirit is made, and had fun seeing the workings of such a large distillery. The free taste at the end was good, but it was hard for us to finish at such an early hour! But we tried them all before heading out to the coast and St. Grobbin’s, the smallest church in Ireland.

Unfortunately the door was locked, but we peeked in the window to see a small room, about the size of a large dining room table. Inside were a Bible, a small communion table and a guestbook. After peeking into the church we wandered up the road a bit to gaze at the view over the sea. We ran into a couple of walkers who recommended we stop just up the way at another little community where a cafe served snacks and tea. Since we were heading that way toward our next stop we decided to take their advice. The cafe was jam packed with folks out enjoying the sunshine, so we asked a couple dining outside at a large table if we might join them. We enjoyed tea, scones with jam and rhubarb tart (all homemade) while chatting with this couple who were enjoying a little seaside holiday. It turned out they knew some folks that Louise knew in their hometown and we had a nice visit while enjoying our snacks.

It was hard to convince ourselves to get back into the car, so we wandered along the coast a bit more before heading further up the coast to the Carrick-A-Rede bridge. This little island has been a spot for fishermen for years, and there is a narrow rope bridge connecting it to the mainland. While it used to be a bit more rustic, it is now a steel rope and for four pounds you can hike down and walk across it to the little island. Louise has been having some knee trouble, so she opted to sit in the sunshine writing letters while we hiked in to be tourists! It was a lovely path with gorgeous views of the sea, the cliffs nearby and the hills with little creeks and springs running into the sea. We made our way across the perfectly stable (though swinging) bridge to the island. It is amazing how loud the waves are when you are standing in the middle of the bridge. More info on the bridge can be found here: http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-carrickarede . We enjoyed the views on the island and on the walk back - all of us agreed we could just sit by the sea and listen to the waves all day long!

But we wanted to tour the churches where Louise serves - so back we went to Kilrea and Aghadowey to see St. Patrick’s and St. Guaire’s. They are both lovely churches altho the untrained eye might have a harder time finding St. Guaire’s. That is because Aghadowey is not a town, but a townland. So while there are some businesses (the local golf club and pub for example) and three churches (presby, Church of Ireland and Catholic) there is no actual town, just an area comprised mainly of farms.

We closed out the evening with ice cream down town and dinner at the local pub with the sexton, Iris. The ice cream was yummy (and comes with a cadbury chocolate bar!). Plus the Brown Trout had all sorts of good food. In fact we had not one, not two, but three kinds of potatoes on our table before the evening was done including “champ” which is mashed taters with scallions and lots of butter! There have been some potatoes at almost every meal in Ireland - they really like their spuds! Our faves so far have been the chips (read: fries) with sweet chili sauce and sour cream - mmmm!

Unfortunately, Louise got a call while we were out that one of her parishioners had passed away, so we had to make a quick exit. She dropped us at her house where we tidied up our stuff and began to pack while she made a pastoral call. We can hardly believe our vacation is nearing a close, but there is one more full day tomorrow!

Walls

Tuesday 9/8

This morning dawned a bit more gray than Monday. We had decided to get a bit of an early start so that we could catch the ferry to Donegal and then drive over to see Derry/Londonderry (more about the name in a bit). After grabbing breakfast we piled in the car and headed to Donegal - a county which is actually the northernmost in all of Ireland, but which is part of the Republic rather than the UK. At the turn off for the ferry there was a sign saying the ferry wasn’t running - not a huge surprise given the wind and dark skies. So we decided to go to Derry/Londonderry first. This is a town that was one of the most affected during The Troubles. The name has evolved over the years and at present is officially Londonderry, however those who hope for a united republic of Ireland/Roman Catholics would typically call it Derry and those who are happy as members of the UK/Protestants would typically call it Londonderry. So it all depends on who you are speaking with - the name they use for the town is a political statement.

The city is also the only one in Ireland that has its old city walls, which have played a part in several key moments of its history up to the recent past. There are many more murals, flags and other indicators of who lives where here. Parts of the city have signs in English AND Irish others it is only English; parts of the city have curbs painted red, white and blue others yellow and green; there is graffitti demanding justice on both sides of town; the police stations look like military outposts but there are also statues and murals celebrating peace. It is a city heavy with memories that are not yet in the past.

After driving us around a bit, Louise dropped us off to walk around while she took care of some church business at the diocesan office. We wandered around, looking at some of the sights, including the Church of Ireland Cathedral where we learned that the wife of a former bishop had penned many hymns with which we were familiar. She wrote “Once in Royal David’s City” and “All Things Bright and Beautiful” among others - so it was interesting to see where she worshipped. We also happened upon a little alley filled with artists where we got to see and visit with some folks painting Greek Orthodox icons and a young potter before we heard from Louise that she was done with her meeting.

We met back up with her for lunch at a great cafe where we all dined royally on homemade soups and fantastic sandwiches. After lunch we drove on to Donegal and through the countryside of the Republic. Because there hasn’t been tension there, it was quite a different feel. There were Catholic and Protestant churches, but not all the painting of colors, hanging of flags, etc. There were police stations, but they looked “normal” rather than like fortified military outposts. There were many more signs in Irish and we would have needed Euros to shop rather than pounds sterling - but other than that it looked much like what we had seen earlier in our drive through the countryside to Kilrea.

We finished our day up with a visit to the Belfast Castle and some fish and chips in the city, as we had to drop Whitney off at home for work the next day. We were sorry to say goodbye, but grateful for the chance to have spent time together laughing and telling stories.

The day was full. I’m not sure we can really understand all that has happened in this land to create divides that go so deep. The incongruity of it all is striking. The land all looks the same, except that it is so very different depending on which side of the border you are on; the town that has know so much violence, hatred and bloodshed is the same place where a group can gather to paint and pray as they create icons, the same place that inspired the words,

“All things bright and beautiful

All creatures great and small

All things wise and wonderful

the Lord God made them all.”

What will it take for the people on each side of the wall to see in one another a creature made by God? It makes me wonder about the walls we all build that create an “us” and a “them”.

Giant's Causeway

Monday, September 7th

We were greeted Monday morning with sunshine, so after breakfast we decided to take advantage of the weather and go see the Giant’s Causeway. We loaded into Louise’s car - a navy blue convertable Saab that she has dreamed of having for years - put the top down, pulled our hair back and hit the open road. It was a gorgeous day and we enjoyed it to the fullest seeing the countryside and the coast under a big blue sky feeling glamorous as we rode along with the wind in our hair. Louise was a great tourguide pointing out towns and landmarks as we drove along. It wasn’t long before we were at the causeway and ready to explore. We were particularly excited because the week prior at Iona we had the chance to take a boat trip to the Island of Staffa which is the location of the other end of this amazing formation of basalt rock columns that extend across the sea from Scotland to Ireland.

Folks used to believe that the giants had built this bridge to connect the two lands, hence the name of the site. Louise said some of her other visitors have said they don’t understand what is so cool about a bunch of rocks, but we were excited! We walked down to the formations and looked around quite a bit - Whitney and Kirsten went out further than Jen and Louise, even seeing some tide pools before having to hurry back up to keep from getting splashed as the tide came in! Eventually Jen and Louise headed up to the cafe for a cuppa tea and hot chocolate (which is served with a Cadbury flake candy bar - uh, why don’t we do that?) while Whitney and Kirsten spent some more time climbing around on this big playground of rock pillars. After playing on the causeway and getting fortified by some tea and yummy scones we decided to drive around a bit more along the coast on our way home. What a lovely drive!

Once home Louise made us some veggie fajitas before heading out to the vestry meeting. We were all so content from the day that we just curled up on the sofas with mugs of tea and chatted till she got back - 2 hours later! Eventually we turned in grateful for the sunshine, the beauty of the place, and good friends with whom to share it all!

Social Sunday

Sunday, September 6th (Happy Birthday Garrett!!!)

We went to church this morning at Fitzroy Presbyterian in Belfast where Whitney is serving as a special mission worker and parish associate. It was a bit different from our presbyterian churches at home in some interesting ways. The NIV we have learned is the Bible translation of choice for so many churches here it is called by some the “Northern Ireland Version”. Also one still has to fill out and turn in a communion token to receive the sacrament. We thought this custom had gone by the wayside. For those who haven’t heard of it, there used to be metal tokens given to you by the elder in the church who was charged with care of your family. If there was reason to believe you had sinned, and should not receive communion, you were denied the token and in some cases made to sit in a chair of penance until you were deemed to be truly sorry and ready to right your ways. It reminds me a bit of a time out chair mixed with the public shaming so popular with our puritan ancestors! The tokens here were paper and we had to write our name and address as well as the name of your elder if you were a member of the congregation. They were collected with the offering before communion was served. It was unclear to me what would happen if you didn’t turn one in, maybe it is just a case of an old tradition whose meaning is lost, but which carries on anyway - something the church too often does!

Another difference, which we thought was interesting, is that the tea and coffee after church was served right in the sanctuary. They don’t have a big meeting space that is close to it, so rather than make folks wind their way through the church, they bring the refreshments right in to them. We were offered fair trade coffee or tea along with a variety of biscuits (cookies). It was nice how this practice turned the sanctuary into a place of fellowship with groups of people enjoying a cuppa while chatting with their neighbors.

After all of that, we went back to Whitney’s house. She really likes to cook and can do some cool things in a little kitchen. The first night she had made us bubble and squeek - an English dish of bacon, cabbage, onion and carrot topped with mashed potatoes - mmmm! Today we had a yummy chicken spaghetti for lunch. We were joined by her housemate, Johnny. He is a musician and had been busy with two gigs the day before. It was interesting to chat with him and we all enjoyed the warm and yummy food that took the chill off the cool rainy day.

Our bellies full we decided we didn’t feel like much more than a day around the house getting packed and taking naps. Altho Whitney also made a banoffee pie to take to our dinner party. This is a yummy dessert that consists of a graham cracker-ish crust (they use digestive biscuits instead), bananas, a toffee layer, whipped cream and a bit of chocolate on top. SO rich and SO good!

After a lazy afternoon, Louise and her friend Ian came to collect us. The plan was for all of us to head to Allison’s house for dinner and then on to Louise’s home in Kilrea for the next few days. Louise’s car doesn’t have a trunk (excuse me, “boot”) large enough for all of our bags so her friend graciously came to be our driver for the evening. Next stop the Montgomery household. Allison and her husband Frank have been friend’s with Louise since they were all about 19 years old. They also live in Belfast and have three children ranging in age from 12 - 22. When we got to their house we discovered that Allison had made a real feast! We had a chicken stroganoff dish, steak with peppers, carrots, cauliflower and two kinds of potatoes. This was followed by Whitney’s banoffee pie, a dessert called Eton Mess which is berries, cream and meringues, AND profiteroles and chocolate. And all of that was followed by a cheese course with about 7 kinds of cheese and a variety of crackers. We laughed and talked and ate and learned about one another - us answering their questions about American healthcare and just how far apart Martha’s Vineyard and Yellowstone are, them helping us to understand a bit more some of the layers of feeling about the conflicts they have experienced. We had a grand time and didn’t even realize how late it was till someone looked at a watch and pointed out it was after 1am!! Since our hosts had to get to work the next morning we bade them farewell, loaded up the car headed to Kilrea.

Louise got us all settled into the extra rooms at the lovely rectory and we pretty much crashed, agreeing that we wouldn’t emerge till at least 9 or 10 the next day! What a full day of good food and great conversation!

Destination: Belfast

Quite early Saturday morning we tiptoed around getting ready so as not to wake the others when we went downstairs to meet the 6am cab ride we had scheduled to the airport. Sally got up to bid us farewell and we were off for the next leg of our trip to Northern Ireland. We caught a flight on Easy Jet from Glasgow to Belfast, it was so short they barely had a chance to offer anyone a drink. Once there we gathered our bags and headed out. The original plan was for the mom of Jen’s friend Louise to pick us up and take us to our friend Whitney’s house in Belfast, because Whitney doesn’t have a car and Louise was scheduled to do a wedding on Saturday (she is a priest in the Church of Ireland). However, we did not see her at the airport after looking at the inside and outside meeting spots. Just as Jennifer was having to confess to ignorance about Louise’s mom’s name (after all, they only met once 10 years ago!) there was Louise herself coming down the sidewalk! She was with her good friend Allison who would be our driver. So after a quick hug, Louise headed off to preside at the wedding and Allison was driving us into the city. All went well and soon we were at Whitney’s home.

After quick introductions all around and confirmation that we would all meet up Sunday night for dinner at her house Allison headed off. Whitney welcomed us with a pot of tea and some cinnamon soda bread (mmmmm . . .) as well as giving us a tour of her cosy home. We decided that since the sun was out we should make the most of the day and see a bit of the city. So, fortified with a little caffeine we made our way to the St. George’s market.

The market happens every Saturday and is a mix of food goods (ready made to bulk spices to coffee to free range lamb), crafts, antiques and live music all held in an indoor hall. This is a weekly haunt for Whit, so we were happy to get to tag-a-long. We had fun wandering around, tasting local cheeses, bread, sweets and pate’ among other things. We also found exactly what we had been looking for as a souvenir. Everywhere we have been here folks use cute little spoons to stir their tea and we had thought it would be fun to have a set of teaspoons to use at home. In one of the antique stalls there were several from different eras, made of different materials all in little cases. We found a set that are sort of art deco and are silver plate (cuz while we think they’d be fun to use, we aren’t so keen on polishing them!). They even came with a matching set of little tongs for sugar cubes - we were excited. Plus these were way cuter and about the same price as plain jane ones from the department store. Our shopping mission completed, we decided to get some provisions before exploring more of the city. Whitney recommended the blueberry scones, hazelnut lattes and a breakfast “bap”. The Belfast Bap is a roll, kind of a pillowy soft one about the size of a big hamburger bun that is used for sandwiches. For breakfast they were available filled with eggs and bacon or sausage.

We decided to share a bap and a scone between the three of us and found a place to sit on the ground and listen to the live music while we munched.

Our bellies full we used our bus day pass to look all around downtown - where there is a ferris wheel right next to city hall - and rode up to see some of the murals and walls that are ever present reminders of the fragility of the peace which exists here now. There are many neighborhoods which are still flying the flags which were hung in July for the marching season here when protestant loyalists and catholic republicans are most visible. While natives just know which areas are which any time of the year, it is even more obvious for tourists like us right now because either the union jack or the flag of the republic of ireland are flying up and down the streets depending on the neighborhoods loyalties. One can still see bullet holes in buildings, murals that stand in tribute to those who died on both sides of the conflict and police stations which still have high walls with barbed wire, more like a prison, to protect those who serve in the police force.

It was sobering for us to see how real the divisions still are, although things are much better than they have been in terms of violence. There are still sometimes what are called, “flare ups”, but nothing like the widespread conflict that existed during “the troubles”. While the problems are deep seeded and complex, it is sad to realize that a big part of what defines them is the sectarian nature of the conflict. It can’t be boiled down to one simple problem, but the reality remains that at least in part lots of peoples’ lives have been altered, damaged or ended too soon because two groups of Christians don’t trust one another. Love one another, not as easy as it sounds.

Room at the Inn

Friday 9/4 - Leaving Iona

After a full week on the Isle of Iona, we were up early Friday to grab breakfast, worship and walk to the jetty for the first leg of the trip out. This was the only night we did not have a place scheduled for our lodging. When we mentioned that we were going to spend a free afternoon following up with inquiries we had made about places to stay in Glasgow, Sally, the Iona Community member serving as host for the week at the Abbey insisted that we stay with her. So, armed with directions to her home and the welcome news that she was also hosting a lovely couple from London whom Jen had gotten to know we ferried to Mull, took the bus ride again across this lovely island and grabbed the ferry to the mainland of Scotland. Once there we had about an hour to kill in Oban - the seafood capital of Scotland. We had a yummy smoked fish lunch before boarding the train for Glasgow. Sally’s home was easy to find, once Jennifer was able to get off the train - the door didn’t want to open all the way and had her foot trapped in it before the conductor came to her rescue! But all was well. We found on arrival that the group had decided to eat in and Tim and Bennie (the couple from London, a retired English prof and a therapist) had headed out to see some sights and pick up provisions. We inquired about what else might be needed and were assured that all was under control. So we, too, set out to see a bit of the West End before dinner.

Not wanting to be the only ones who hadn’t contripbuted to dinner, we decided to look for a dessert. This quest was made more challenging because Jen knew that Bennie couldn’t eat wheat or dairy . . . try finding a dessert in this land of toffee, butter and cream with those restrictions! We had a great time looking around but had just about given up on the dessert quest having picked up some chocolate penguin biscuits (a lot like Tim Tams from Australia - yum!) to share along with sympathy when we found a possible spot. There was a cute cafe on the corner with a deli for take home next door. So we checked it out. There were really yummy looking fruits, sandwiches, salads and a whole dessert counter. Kirsten spotted one that had a sign proudly declaring it wheat and dairy free - success! We got enough of the orange polenta cake to share with all and were able to return with a dessert that all could enjoy.

The evening was quite enjoyable and spent sharing stories and laughing as we learned a bit more about one another. We had come on the trip knowing in advance we would spend several nights with old friends, it was quite a surprise and really a delight to spend one with new friends as well!

Jen at Iona

The island of Iona is a beautiful windswept place. I loved staying at the abbey where my room had a small, long window framed in stone that looked out over the sound to the isle of Mull. My roommates were two young women who just graduated college - one this spring and another the year prior. It was definitely a "God thing" as they had lots of theological questions about the worship - it was fun being the college chaplain for a bit. There were folks from all over staying in the Abbey, including a big group from Sweden and another from Cambridge. While living as part of the community all are invited to worship and are expected to work. My tasks as a part of the "otter" group for the week included setting up and cleaning up for breakfast and tidying up after tea and coffee which followed the evening prayer service. A woman named Kay and I were on toast duty each morning - so no sleeping in for us!

After our welcome on Saturday and worship that evening we fell into a bit of a routine of worship, work and meals. There wasn't a focused program at the Abbey this week - it was just called Gathering Space - so we were free to attend talks or optional activities, but we were also free to relax, read and explore the island. Our host for the week was a kind woman named Sally who has been a member of the Iona community for years. She offered talks about different aspects of the community's core values as well as living out their rule. If you want to find out more about the community you can check out their info at http://www.iona.org.uk. There are too many stories to tell, I'm not sure I've really processed the week, but here are a couple of things that stood out to me.

The week was filled with meeting new people, celebrating creatively in worship at the Abbey Church, and enjoying the beauty of the island. While it rained for much of our time, there were often clear nights and the stars were amazing, as was the full moon reflected in the sound. The worship space is incredible. An old abbey church that was in ruins was refurbished in the 1930s. The choices they made about what to fix-up and what to leave semi-ruins is interesting. There is a gaping hole in one wall that means a piano can be visible above the choir stalls. Open spaces in the seating are are filled with movable chairs (with the exception of the fixed choir stalls) so that many times the seating was moved for a different service. Instead of a pulpit there was a leader's desk with chair from which the various members of the staff, volunteers and community led us in worship. We used the Iona Abbey Worship Book as well as the Church of Scotland's newest hymnal, Church Hymnary for most of the services. The thing that struck me the most was how intentional each leader was to welcome everyone, to speak clearly about what we were doing and what page numbers were needed, and the variety of folks invited to participate in the services. At the Sunday morning communion service it was interesting to note the way that children were cared for. In the very center of the cross formed by the architecture of the church, right in front of the leader's desk, there were some rugs so that kids could be sitting on the floor coloring or doodling while the whole thing began. Then there was a point at which they could leave if they wanted, just before the sermon, for an activity in the cloisters. Following the sermon, they were invited back in so they could participate in communion. I appreciated that they were included, and in fact central, but not expected to sit through the sermon till they were about 10-12.

A highlight of the week for me was the pilgrimage. It is a 7ish mile hike all over the island's hills and bogs stopping at points of significance for prayer and singing. I had brought my boots and hiking poles and was really hoping that my leg would hold out. It was a very long day, but I did it with help from others. Of course, Kirsten was there to lend a hand (or a shoulder) and a word of encouragement as needed. Linda, the Iona staff member who was in charge of bringing up the rear of the hike became my buddy. She was an interesting and very gracious woman from Scotland with a great sense of humor who is pursuing ordination in the next few years. I was also befriended by a fellow named Ian, a 60-something Scottish gent who took it upon himself to make sure I made it to Columba's bay - often offering his arm to me when the trail was rocky and the footing unsteady. I'm pretty sure I couldn't have made it through the long day without their help. Despite one trip on some slippery rocks, and my good leg sinking into a bog at one point (they don't tell you how smelly that mud is - ick!) I made it to all the points on the pilgrimage and returned home intact!

We got to enjoy our packed lunches on Columba's Bay - a beautiful stony beach with the most amazing variety of colored stones I've ever seen in one place. My friend Ian found a bit of Iona marble for me to bring home - there used to be a marble quarry on the Island and bits of the green and white serpentine are considered to be lucky. We were also greeted about 2/3 of the way along the hike by folks from the abbey who brought us hot tea and flapjacks as a snack. I learned that flapjack here is NOT a pancake, but a sweet oat treat more like a really rich bar cookie (pretty sure the ingredients are butter, sugar syrup and oats -period). That powered us up to finish the journey. The place they met us with the snack was the field that is used both as the island's golf course and public grazing land. I was amused to see cows and sheep munching on grass near the golf hole flags as we ate our own snacks.

There are many other memories from this week - too many to note really - but the hospitality, hanging out in the pub with people from all over, running into folks I knew from the states on the island, the common meals (including homemade bread with soup for lunch each day, yum), the beautiful music at worship, the young kids from Australia keeping us in stitches and making us think, the list goes on . . . these will be remembered and pondered for weeks to come. One friend said it was like church camp for grown-ups. We had worship, crafts, meal duty, a hike, a talent show. Maybe she is right, like camp I was ready to leave when the time came, but left singing new songs and knowing I will miss the place and people for some time to come.

IONA or BUST!

Saturday to Iona

Our choices for Saturday morning were getting a cab into the subway and taking that to the train station - or Linda would drop us off. The catch being that she had to head out early to get to a conference where she was speaking later in the day. We opted for early so we could spend a bit more time with Linda and not have to navigate the city on our own. So we started the day sharing porridge with Linda - where we learned the proper size spoon to use (a BIG one!) and then loaded up the car - all by 6am. Then off to the train station where we got a cup of coffee and awaited the first step of our journey to Iona.

The train left the station at 8:20 and made its way across Scotland from Glasgow to Oban. We were lucky to have four seats to ourselves (two sets of two facing one another with a table in between). The journey took us right by Loch Lamond and through the hills filled with little waterfalls and even more beautiful vistas of the countryside. In Oban we left the train and walked about a block to catch the ferry. Linda had told us about a fish shop just before the ferry, so we picked up some crab sandwiches for lunch there. Once on the ferry we met up with Rachel, a friend of Jen’s from seminary who is also spending this week at Iona. She is traveling with a friend of hers called Schonda and the four of us had fun visiting on the boat ride enjoying our lunch.

That ferry took us to the Isle of Mull where we disembarked and got onto a bus for the next part of the trip. The forty-five minute bus trip over Mull was interesting. The roads are all pretty much one lane, so when we encountered a car coming the opposite direction, we had to find a place where they could get around us. Plus there were sheep and cattle grazing on the open range. A very different sort of traffic congestion all the way around! Jen was particularly excited because we saw some of the famous Highland cattle on Mull. They are big creatures with reddish coats and it looks as though they need a haircut as their bangs are in their eyes.

Once over Mull we got out of our bus and waited for the final ferry to Iona. While we waited it really began to rain in earnest - we were all grateful for the little building at the dock! When the boat had docked and folks were disembarking we braved the weather and headed out with all our belongings. The last ferry ride is quite short - maybe 15-20 minutes - but the water was really choppy from the weather. As we landed on Iona, there was a van waiting to take our suitcases and someone who would lead us the rest of the way. So we left our bags standing in the rain so they could get loaded up and we zipped up our rain jackets and began the walk. The Abbey and MacLeod Center are not that far from the dock, however at the end of this long day of travel, walking in the pouring rain, it seemed further!

We were greeted with steaming hot cups of tea and freshly made shortbread (as well as information about a “drying room” for our clothes) - it was a great welcome and we immediately began to warm up.

Once were were assigned our rooms and our bags had been delivered we had time to explore a bit. So we gave one another tours of our respective buildings and went to see what is in the Iona bookshop as well as the shop run by local artists. We were able to stay mostly dry and get back in time for dinner.

After supper we had a welcome session where we had the chance to meet some of the other folk with whom we will be spending the week. In the Abbey there are two sizable groups, one from Cambridge and one from Sweden as well as a smattering of folks from other places. In the Mac there folks from all over, including a family with two young children from Australia.

The evening ended with worship in the Abbey church followed by tea and cookies in the refectory. Several people who are staying elsewhere on the island (hotels, b&bs, camping, etc.) plus some of the locals came to the service and the fellowship time afterwards.

We fell asleep that evening feeling quite welcomed, and grateful to have made the journey safely.

On the road again . . .

Friday - drive from Aberdeen to Glasgow

We woke up in Aberdeen and had tea and toast with David before packing up the car to head south. The plan was to take a different route back and return the car in Glasgow. The highway, we were told, is called the Great Western Road and it winds its way through the countryside coming quite near to the royal estate at Balmoral. David and Scott also let us know that the town of Ballater would have nice shops (including a bakery!) that would be worth a look. So with a hug and a word of thanks for their kind hospitality we were on the road again!

As we left Aberdeen we began to drive through some lovely little towns and the scenery began to change. There were more tall trees and we were soon driving alongside the River Dee. First stop was to fill up the car with “petrol” which was running 2.20 pounds/liter. We were later glad we did this when we did, as there were almost no places to stop once we got out into the countryside.

The next stop was the town of Ballater - a small village quite close to Balmoral Castle. The railroad car that Queen Victoria used to travel here is on display and there are many shops which proudly displaying the royal coats of arms and signs saying that they are patronized by the royal family. After wandering about a bit, we asked for directions to the bakery and found it. They are known for making Balmoral Bread, a whole grain, seed filled bread. We got a loaf to take to our friend Linda that night. And as we had only had toast thus far, decided to have a bite for lunch. In addition to sweets, they also make and sell warm savory pies. As the weather was chilly and rainy, this seemed like just the thing to warm us up! We tried the cheese, potato and onion pie, the shepherds pie, and the minced meat pie. Along with these we had a black currant Ribena drink - which is something we have seen everywhere. The pies were warm and filling and the drink tasty.

On to the castle an distillery . . . this distillery, Royal LochNagar, was one recommended by the nice man at the city house in Aberdeen. Since his shortbread hint had been so good, we decided to follow up on this lead as well. Once again we toured the distillery - we have found it interesting the little differences in how each place prepares their own special blend. From how they malt the barley, to how long it is fermented, to the shape of the still and how each batch is tested. One thing we’ve learned is that the smokier ones use more of the peat when they heat the barley in the malting process. And, much like different wines reflect the region where the grapes were grown, you can taste different flavors depending on what area of Scotland the whiskey is from. After a dram of whiskey we were on the the castle - only to find out it was closed to visitors, because the Queen herself is “in house” right now. So, postcard pictures will have to do.

The next few hours were simply spent in awe at the scenery. As we went south, there were fewer and then no trees. Which meant you could see for miles and miles. Much of it was open range, so we came upon a few sheep. Finally we were driving through a quite hilly area which in the winter is used for skiing. There were little creeks and mountain springs, heather was in bloom, and periodically there was a small village. It was all really just lovely.

Our car was due back to the Glasgow airport by 7:30 pm and we had arranged for our friend Linda to pick us up there. However . . . when we got to the airport, at 7, we discovered that the company from whom we had rented the car did not have an office at the airport! After a few frantic phone calls and some interesting directions we were guided to their off-site office and got the car there by 7:35. They were apologetic about the confusion and their shuttle driver got us delivered to the airport, so all was well.

Linda was there to meet us and took us back to her home where she served us a lovely dinner of steak pie, carrots and brocoli - with fresh strawberries and yogurt for desert (bought for our benefit as our host doesn't eat either!). We spent the evening in front of the fire, enjoying good conversation till well past all our bedtimes!

Serendipitous Shortbread

Thursday in Aberdeen

Having stayed up late visiting with David and Scott as well as their other houseguests, Terri and Neil, we were quite “knackered”. So we slept in on Thursday and by the time we’d had a bit of breakfast it was after 10:00. But we were armed with maps, information and a GPS system (thanks David!) to guide our way.

First stop the University of Aberdeen, King’s College. We were able to sweet talk the lady at the visitor’s center out of a parking pass, so were able to park on campus while we wondered around looking at the historic campus and chapel. The history of the place continues to fascinate - there are so many formerly Catholic churches/chapels, etc. that have been used for centuries now by protestants after some changes were made. For instance in the college chapel, there is a tomb for a former bishop smack at the front near the chancel. It used to have his effigy on top, but that has been removed and covered with a large slab of granite, so that it just looks like a marble table. The remnants of the reformation are everywhere here - and the very real truth of those who were killed (on both sides) for their faith is ever present.

After walking around the college a bit more, we stopped in the city house and met quite the ambassador for Scotland. He was a charming man who informed us that if we were driving around in the country side we should definitely make our way to Huntley in order to visit the local shortbread factory. While we were getting directions a young man came in to inquire about tours - one thing led to another and we came to find out that he is from Hood River, OR. Small world, eh? The gentleman at the city house finished giving us directions (along with lapel pins of the Scottish flag and pens as well) and we were on our way out of town.

Of course, we also found out that on the way to the shortbread place there was a whiskey distillery. And since it closed earlier, we decided to stop there first. The drive out was stunning. Farmland, sheep, hills covered with heather, and windmills producing power were all part of our view. We were well off the main road (and grateful for the satellite navigation system) when we pulled into the distillery at Glen . .. .? Which we later found out means “Valley of the Blackberry Brambles” - so maybe we could use that name for the Williamette Valley as well,eh? We were the only two for the tour, so we got a private showing of the facilities and a free taste of one of their whiskeys at the end. The woman giving the tour was really patient with our questions and we felt like we were beginning to really understand more about the process.

Then it was on to Dean’s Shortbread. It is quite the operation - having begun years ago as a simple fundraising idea for the local pipe band, it is now a huge company producing LOTS of shortbread every year. The gift shop had “seconds” - which were mostly shapes that hadn’t cut cleanly, so there were extra bits on the side, for sale. Since they were so cheap we decided we should buy some for ourselves and to share. This could be a dangerous place if it were close by!!

That evening we drove back to Aberdeen where David had prepared quite the feast for dinner - roast beef, yorkshire pudding, gravy, roasted potatoes, peas and carrots. It was a grand meal which we enjoyed before having to bid farewell to Terri and Neil as they left to catch a plane back to England. The rest of the evening was a lovely quiet night visiting with David and Scott.

Driving on the left . . .

Edinburgh to Aberdeen - Wednesday

We woke today to windy, rainy skies but no worries because we’re off to the coast - up East Neuk and on to Aberdeen - and we imagine that’s how costal villages are meant to look. We packed up and headed downstairs for potato waffles & bacon, salmon & eggs, and more fresh fruit & hot tea. Just as we finished the car rental “shuttle” driver arrived at the door. We were handed the keys to a sporty black Vauxhall. While the rental office initially sent us the wrong direction, we got ourselves easily turned back around and on our journey. Kirsten was not afraid of driving on the opposite side of the road, navigating roundabouts or using a standard shift - but learning exactly where the gears were while in the city in narrow lanes on which cars are often also parked was quite a feat. Kirsten appreciated Kathleen’s hesitation to make left turns in the states, as it took her a long while to build confidence making right turns! Alas, we found it much easier than finding a place to turn around. Thanks to the kind car hire folks, we now knew we were headed to Anstruther for the best fish ‘n chips in the UK. Before arriving there, we stopped in St. Monans to have a look around the old church by the sea. We parked quite a distance away, so enjoyed a stroll there through the town and back along the harbor - the tide was so far out most of the small fishing boats were simply resting their hulls on the sand! We did our best to stop at Glamis castle - think Macbeth - but arrived just in time to take a photo of the entrance gates. Ah, well, we were headed to visit our friends David & Scott. David teaches religion for 11-18 year olds at the school where Lord Byron was educated. Scott is the parish pastor at Queen’s Cross church - there is a large statue of Queen Victoria in the middle of the roundabout just outside the church. The manse is quite lovely, and by far the best B&B we’ve stayed in thus far! We spent the evening catching up with old friends and getting to know others, including Kirsten’s newest Birthday Buddy, Terry. She is one of David’s childhood friends who was visiting with her partner, Neil, from London. We enjoyed wine, tea, cookies, Cadbury Flake chocolate bars, and sampling David’s extensive selection of ice creams!

Haggis & The Castle

Edinburgh - Tuesday

Relieved to be spending another night in luxurious accommodation in the same location (thanks, mom!), we woke without setting an alarm. We were served a traditional Scottish breakfast of sausages, eggs, bacon (or, rather, ham), and haggis which we quite enjoyed. Also, plenty of fruit, toast, yogurt and a big, hot pot of tea. We did not even wish for lunch, and actually made it through without dinner!

Our bellies really full, we set off to visit Edinburgh Castle. Amazing! And we were blessed with a beautiful warm and sunny day. After imagining life before running water atop the city, we wound our way down to the gorgeous park below which once served as the old city’s reservoir, and made our way to a craft fair happening in conjunction with the Festival of Spirituality and Peace held this month. Before looking around, we stopped for tea and a scone at St. John’s Episcopal church, appreciating the ways in which this church serves and participates in its community. After visiting with some quite creative folks, we followed along a suggested walking tour to see a different part of the city - this time the paths the cows used to take into town for sale.

By now we had worn ourselves out with wandering and exploring, so decided to take our bus route through to the end of the line in Leith. After a pot of tea and some bickies for energy, we walked out the door to wait for the bus...and found ourselves in awe for the beautiful rainbow that waited with us. While we were too late for an on-board tour, we stood amazed at/jealous of the Royal Yacht before having a walk through this old harbor town. We ended up back near our b&b at the Guilty Lilly pub for an ale to wind down our day. The highlight for Kirsten at this late hour was playing on the local park’s playground - there was a teeter-totter, merry-go-round, a fisherman’s net to climb on, and the BEST - a 50 meter zip line! What a great park!

Exploring Edinburgh

Monday, August 24

Edinburgh

The morning began with a continental breakfast at our B&B. We have found that toast is quite properly served here in a caddy - they have a variety of them for sale. It keeps the toast from going soggy - and makes a great vessel for all the yummy jams and marmalades! Then we moved our bags to the next B&B, the Ardmor House. Because of the festivities we had a challenge booking one place for all three nights. So remember, it is quite worth it to experience Edinburgh in August, but book your rooms EARLY!!! The folks at the Ardmore let us not only drop our bags, but check in early and then we were on our way downtown to the city center.

Our first stop was the official headquarters of the Edinburgh Military Tattoo. To be honest, we had not really thought about going. From what we had ready it seemed like not a lot more than a marching pipe band. But some Scots on our plane over let us know that it is not to be missed, and that even tho it was probably sold out we might be able to get tickets the day of from those who return tickets they can’t use in hopes of reselling them. Luck was on our side and we were able to score two seats.

Tickets for the evening in hand we headed up the Royal Mile toward the castle. Then we saw the line and did a little asking around. We found out you can buy tickets online and pick them up from an automated kiosk - totally bypassing the line (which can take hours). So we decided to do procure the tickets online and take the tour on Tuesday.

On to the next item on our agenda . . .the “Scottish Whiskey Experience” - a touristy event that tells about the process of making and history of whiskey. We decided it we are here, we should learn a bit about this traditional beverage. It included a cheezy ride in a whiskey barrel with ghosts of old distillers telling us about the ingredients, history and methods. But it was educational and the tour guide who met us after did a great job of describing the various regions of whiskey making, the different flavor profiles of the areas, etc. And, of course, it ended with a tasting where we met even more knowledgeable staff people. Unfortunately Jennifer’s favorite one runs about 200pounds (almost $400) a bottle! Guess we won’t be bringing that home as a souvenir!!

After that we needed lunch so we headed down to the Cowsgate area and had bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie at Monster Mash - a yummy cafe we learned about from the Lonely Planet guide. YUM! We also tried the most popular soda in Scotland, Iron Bru. It is an orange colored soda that has a taste sort of in between creme soda and big red. It outsells coca-cola here.

Bellys full we then walked over to a cemetery not far from us made famous by a little dog that was faithful to his master even after death: Gray Friar’s Bobby. It is a famous story over here, and Disney has even made a film about this faithful little fella who wouldn’t leave the site of his owner’s grave.

After a wander thru the cemetery we walked up St. Mary’s to an art gallery called Schop which had an exhibit of work done by architect Nigel Peak. We had read about his work and seen bits of it elsewhere - very detailed pieces that can mesmerize you for hours. We thoroughly enjoyed seeing more of his work before heading back to the Royal Mile and the John Knox House. Though it is only speculation that he might have lived here toward the end of his life, there is some good information in the exhibit about his life, ministry and war of wills with Mary Queen of Scots.

We then had to get back to put on warmer gear for the evening’s entertainment: The Military Tattoo! Were we ever glad we went! There were almost 8000 people in the stands from all around the globe. It is a grand display of marching, playing, lights, drums, fireworks, etc. The whole event is staged on the grounds just outside the Edinburgh castle and they use it as a backdrop, with torches burning, cannons firing and images projected on its surface. The music was gorgeous, the bands from military regiments around the world were amazing and the Royal Air Force fly-over certainly gets your attention! The whole thing is really over the top, and when the entire pipe band plays Amazing Grace, it’s hard not to have a lump in your throat. What a way to end the day!