Tuesday 9/8
This morning dawned a bit more gray than Monday. We had decided to get a bit of an early start so that we could catch the ferry to Donegal and then drive over to see Derry/Londonderry (more about the name in a bit). After grabbing breakfast we piled in the car and headed to Donegal - a county which is actually the northernmost in all of Ireland, but which is part of the Republic rather than the UK. At the turn off for the ferry there was a sign saying the ferry wasn’t running - not a huge surprise given the wind and dark skies. So we decided to go to Derry/Londonderry first. This is a town that was one of the most affected during The Troubles. The name has evolved over the years and at present is officially Londonderry, however those who hope for a united republic of Ireland/Roman Catholics would typically call it Derry and those who are happy as members of the UK/Protestants would typically call it Londonderry. So it all depends on who you are speaking with - the name they use for the town is a political statement.
The city is also the only one in Ireland that has its old city walls, which have played a part in several key moments of its history up to the recent past. There are many more murals, flags and other indicators of who lives where here. Parts of the city have signs in English AND Irish others it is only English; parts of the city have curbs painted red, white and blue others yellow and green; there is graffitti demanding justice on both sides of town; the police stations look like military outposts but there are also statues and murals celebrating peace. It is a city heavy with memories that are not yet in the past.
After driving us around a bit, Louise dropped us off to walk around while she took care of some church business at the diocesan office. We wandered around, looking at some of the sights, including the Church of Ireland Cathedral where we learned that the wife of a former bishop had penned many hymns with which we were familiar. She wrote “Once in Royal David’s City” and “All Things Bright and Beautiful” among others - so it was interesting to see where she worshipped. We also happened upon a little alley filled with artists where we got to see and visit with some folks painting Greek Orthodox icons and a young potter before we heard from Louise that she was done with her meeting.
We met back up with her for lunch at a great cafe where we all dined royally on homemade soups and fantastic sandwiches. After lunch we drove on to Donegal and through the countryside of the Republic. Because there hasn’t been tension there, it was quite a different feel. There were Catholic and Protestant churches, but not all the painting of colors, hanging of flags, etc. There were police stations, but they looked “normal” rather than like fortified military outposts. There were many more signs in Irish and we would have needed Euros to shop rather than pounds sterling - but other than that it looked much like what we had seen earlier in our drive through the countryside to Kilrea.
We finished our day up with a visit to the Belfast Castle and some fish and chips in the city, as we had to drop Whitney off at home for work the next day. We were sorry to say goodbye, but grateful for the chance to have spent time together laughing and telling stories.
The day was full. I’m not sure we can really understand all that has happened in this land to create divides that go so deep. The incongruity of it all is striking. The land all looks the same, except that it is so very different depending on which side of the border you are on; the town that has know so much violence, hatred and bloodshed is the same place where a group can gather to paint and pray as they create icons, the same place that inspired the words,
All things wise and wonderful
the Lord God made them all.”
What will it take for the people on each side of the wall to see in one another a creature made by God? It makes me wonder about the walls we all build that create an “us” and a “them”.
No comments:
Post a Comment