Exploring Edinburgh

Monday, August 24

Edinburgh

The morning began with a continental breakfast at our B&B. We have found that toast is quite properly served here in a caddy - they have a variety of them for sale. It keeps the toast from going soggy - and makes a great vessel for all the yummy jams and marmalades! Then we moved our bags to the next B&B, the Ardmor House. Because of the festivities we had a challenge booking one place for all three nights. So remember, it is quite worth it to experience Edinburgh in August, but book your rooms EARLY!!! The folks at the Ardmore let us not only drop our bags, but check in early and then we were on our way downtown to the city center.

Our first stop was the official headquarters of the Edinburgh Military Tattoo. To be honest, we had not really thought about going. From what we had ready it seemed like not a lot more than a marching pipe band. But some Scots on our plane over let us know that it is not to be missed, and that even tho it was probably sold out we might be able to get tickets the day of from those who return tickets they can’t use in hopes of reselling them. Luck was on our side and we were able to score two seats.

Tickets for the evening in hand we headed up the Royal Mile toward the castle. Then we saw the line and did a little asking around. We found out you can buy tickets online and pick them up from an automated kiosk - totally bypassing the line (which can take hours). So we decided to do procure the tickets online and take the tour on Tuesday.

On to the next item on our agenda . . .the “Scottish Whiskey Experience” - a touristy event that tells about the process of making and history of whiskey. We decided it we are here, we should learn a bit about this traditional beverage. It included a cheezy ride in a whiskey barrel with ghosts of old distillers telling us about the ingredients, history and methods. But it was educational and the tour guide who met us after did a great job of describing the various regions of whiskey making, the different flavor profiles of the areas, etc. And, of course, it ended with a tasting where we met even more knowledgeable staff people. Unfortunately Jennifer’s favorite one runs about 200pounds (almost $400) a bottle! Guess we won’t be bringing that home as a souvenir!!

After that we needed lunch so we headed down to the Cowsgate area and had bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie at Monster Mash - a yummy cafe we learned about from the Lonely Planet guide. YUM! We also tried the most popular soda in Scotland, Iron Bru. It is an orange colored soda that has a taste sort of in between creme soda and big red. It outsells coca-cola here.

Bellys full we then walked over to a cemetery not far from us made famous by a little dog that was faithful to his master even after death: Gray Friar’s Bobby. It is a famous story over here, and Disney has even made a film about this faithful little fella who wouldn’t leave the site of his owner’s grave.

After a wander thru the cemetery we walked up St. Mary’s to an art gallery called Schop which had an exhibit of work done by architect Nigel Peak. We had read about his work and seen bits of it elsewhere - very detailed pieces that can mesmerize you for hours. We thoroughly enjoyed seeing more of his work before heading back to the Royal Mile and the John Knox House. Though it is only speculation that he might have lived here toward the end of his life, there is some good information in the exhibit about his life, ministry and war of wills with Mary Queen of Scots.

We then had to get back to put on warmer gear for the evening’s entertainment: The Military Tattoo! Were we ever glad we went! There were almost 8000 people in the stands from all around the globe. It is a grand display of marching, playing, lights, drums, fireworks, etc. The whole event is staged on the grounds just outside the Edinburgh castle and they use it as a backdrop, with torches burning, cannons firing and images projected on its surface. The music was gorgeous, the bands from military regiments around the world were amazing and the Royal Air Force fly-over certainly gets your attention! The whole thing is really over the top, and when the entire pipe band plays Amazing Grace, it’s hard not to have a lump in your throat. What a way to end the day!